Cinque Terre & Pisa

My first stop in Italy was to be Pisa and Cinque Terre, which was added to the itinerary rather late so we were very time constrained. Setting off from Florence, we took the train first to Pisa, and a bus to the actual Leaning Tower of Pisa.

I really like trains. Possibly because they always suggested something very foreign and romantic, like "Murder on the Orient Express". I read copious amounts of Sherlock Holmes and Hercule Poirot, where they started many adventures on the first train to some countryside destination. The local trains in Italy function more like long distance buses. You buy a ticket that's valid through a certain time period and you validate the ticket before you get on the train.

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We had a bit of an adventure getting to the tower. Italian transportation websites aren't very user friendly, so we ended up taking the almost-but-not-exactly-right bus, getting off within sight of the tower and wandering through a residential area to get to Piazza del Duomo.

The tower was a lot more slanted than I thought. Apparently it leans only 4 degrees but it looked in real danger of toppling over at a gentle shake. What I found interesting was the slight curving you can see from about half-way up the tower, as the later architect tried to correct for the tilt which was already present when they first started construction.

The cathedral was quite wonderful. Lots of mosaics and some Byzantine influences. Marble, paintings, sculptures and glittering gold everywhere. Some of the highlights are the lunette of the Virgin Mary over the main entrance, the ornate pulpit, the beautiful coffer ceiling and dome, and the remains of a saint (although the verity of relics are always suspicious in my mind.)

Cinque Terre is a collection of five villages designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. We headed off to Cinque Terre by train through La Speiza. I found out later the trains were running two behind, so we accidentally boarded the wrong train which went directly to Monterosso. Our original plan was for just Manarola and Riomaggiore. The unfortunate mistake with the train schedule and the closure of the paths connecting the villages resulted in the rather better plan of taking the boat, which allowed us brilliant views of the villages from the water.

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There are no food pictures in this post because I forgot about taking photos until after I ate everything.

I had delicious fresh seafood fried up and served in paper cones, fresh local fruits and baked bread at Cinque Terre. So delicious that I ate fritto misto two times at different shops and forgot to take pictures until after I ate most of it, both times! 

The first thing I have to say about Cinque Terre is "the pictures are a lie". It doesn't look nearly as colorful as some of the photographers have managed to make it look. I did find a way to cheat my way to nicer photos using an in-built camera filter or by ridiculous adjustments to exposure and white balance.

I'm not saying the villages are boring, they most emphatically are very quaint and lovely. It just didn't look as strikingly beautiful as the pictures that turn up when you google for Cinque Terre.

Via dell'Amore was closed but we did find plenty of locks at various places.

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Next post will be on Florence. It will have plenty of food pictures, I promise.

Italy Digest

I had an amazing time during my first visit to Italy. There's too many pictures and too much to tell, so I'll start off slow with some iPhone photos while I sort through the 1200 on my camera. We visited Florence, (Cinque Terre, Pisa), Venice and Rome on this trip. Rather than a true digest, this is more of an introduction.

The flight there wasn't too bad; as usual I spent the time catching up on movies. We transferred in Amsterdam, where I got to sit on some cool Danish Modern chairs. We took a taxi from the airport to our hotel once we reached Florence. Our taxi driver was an impeccably dressed elderly Italian man in a purple sweater. In Italy, the lanes are a suggestion: 4 cars, 2 scooters and a bicycle easily drive through a three lane road. It's all traffic circles in Italy, which just added to the chaos.

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"lemon and wisteria"  --  one of the many leitmotifs of my trip in Italy. Flowers blanketed daily life in Italy, unlike North America where they are too often relegated to appearances on special occasions only. They overflowed on balconies and you were bound to find a flower market on weekends.

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And the food! Not just pasta and pizza, although there were many, for me on this trip. I didn't imagine pasta and pizza could taste so much better as they did in Italy. There was absolutely wonderful seafood in Venice and Cinque Terre, and of course I hunted out the local specialties, like tripe (trippa and lampredotto) in Florence. I've had more gelato in two weeks than I normally eat during an entire summer.

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This is just a small sample of the overwhelming spam of food pictures to come.

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Italy was a wonderful mix of the modern and the old: cars and scooters racing down narrow cobblestone alleyways, wooden shutters on leaning old buildings selling cellphone sim cards, and modern concrete buildings straddling the ruins of empires gone by. Very different from the sterile newness that pervades North American cities.  

Rome in particular was an amazing millefeuille of Baroque wrapped Renaissance churches built on Roman Republic plazas built on early Roman ruins built over ancient pagan temples.

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The architecture is of course undeniably magnificent. The churches are draped in decadence: mosaics, paintings, marble and sculptures cover every surface. There's a mixture of styles spanning years and countries. I did start to get a bit of church fatigue towards the end and my neck was hurting from straining to see the frescos on the ceilings. (A quote from Mr. Demwell, my half Italian high school teacher: "ABC, another bloody church".)

I was incredibly happy with all the wonderful and amazing artworks I was able to see. Similar to my trip to the Louvre, there's an incredible sense of excitement at seeing paintings and sculptures I've studied but so far only seen in pictures. By the end of our meander through the Uffizi, I had taught my mother to recognize the Annunciation and baby John the Baptist in paintings.

(Another credit here to Mr. Demwell for his explanation of the Assumption which I used: you can't have Jesus' mother dying, especially not growing old or with sickness. No claims to dogmatic or theological correctness.)

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In Venice, everything was a boat, even the traffic jams. I'll probably harp on this point again later. Garbage boat, postal boat, ambulance boat, police boat, taxi boat, construction boat...

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A highlight of my trip: seeing the Pope! (I think. Does it look like the pope?)  We happened to be in St. Peters while they were wrapping up a mass.

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Next up: Cinque Terre and Pisa! (A fair warning now that there will be almost no food pictures because I was too excited and ate everything before I remembered.)

The Travelling Apothecary

I just finished putting together my luggage for my Italian trip. I try to keep things simple when I travel so I don't tend to lug around too many makeup or beauty items.

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Regardless of the destination, I always bring sunscreen! Being both pale and having sunlight sensitive skin means that I need sunscreen whenever I'm planning to be outdoors for more than half an hour or so. I've been using this particular line for a while and it has a nice dry feel.  I realize that I'm probably going slightly overboard with SPF 70.

The moisturizer I'm using at the moment is the Hadanomy collagen line from Sana. It has a really nice light and watery texture. For night time I have Body Shop's seaweed essence which I have been using for a really long time now. (I think this is my 7th bottle.) It's especially good for calming my skin after a day in the sun. For washing my face I'm going to bring along Shu Uemura's cleansing oil. This one is amazing at melting makeup and sunscreen for an easy rinse off, and leaves my skin feeling incredibly smooth and moisturized. And of course oil blotting sheets are never far from my side in any situation.

To save space, I buy little travel sized containers from Daiso to fill so everything barely takes up the space of a coin purse. I generally leave my hair up to the mercy of the hotel shampoo.

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For travelling makeup, I prefer items that can fit in a small cylindrical pencil case. BB creams keeps everything simple and I can just apply with my fingers right after sunscreen. I really like this one by BRTC, in part because it has broad spectrum SPF 50. Despite looking dark in the tube, it matches my skin tone much better than foundations that look light but somehow ends up yellow or darker on my skin.  

The pink lip gloss tube looking thing is actually a cream eyeshadow from Jill Stuart. Also for eyes: two gel pencil eyeliners in brown and black, and a brown eyebrow crayon. For lips: Dior's Lip Glow balm and a natural coral lipstick from Jill Stuart. I'm not planning on wearing mascara but I brought along a small sample tube of Dior. The perfume is a miniature bottle of Dior's J'adore. I chose it because it has the toughest lid to pry open out of all my miniatures, which I figured means it won't spill. (In case you haven't guessed, Dior and Jill Stuart are my favourite brands.)

I didn't take pictures but I also always take along a small "first aid/medicine" bag filled with Tylenol, band-aids, safety scissor, cough drops, vitamins, and single use eye drops and moist disinfecting towelettes.

 

Added bonus: accessories!

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I always try to bring one each of clip, hair band, and scrunchie for flexibility. These ones seem to fit the Italian theme. (Marine and Venetian lace?) I'm generally not fond of wearing jewellery since I have to be constantly cognisant of them to prevent snagging on something, or when washing my hands. Just a simple (and cheap) bracelet and a cross (from my Gothic Lolita days) because "when in Rome...".

My friends are still convinced I'll spontaneously combust when I try to step over the threshold in the Vatican or turn into a bat/cat/black-pool-of-goo. I maintain that I've been in plenty of churches before and I haven't yet attempted immolating any clergymen.  

Food, glorious food!

A parade of the food of March, starting off with one of my new favourite sushi restaurant. The links to the restaurant website will be at the end of the post.

Chirashi-don from Tsuki Sushi Bar

Chirashi-don from Tsuki Sushi Bar

Yes, that is three type of roe and a wealth of sashimi placed at the side, including plump scallops. What really separates it from the rest are the pickles and the sprouts. Their tamagoyaki is also amazing.

Some more pictures of various sushi from the same place:

Delicious sushi (can't remember what they were called) from Tsuki Sushi Bar.

Delicious sushi (can't remember what they were called) from Tsuki Sushi Bar.

One of my stand-by favourites is Kita-no-Donburi. Judging by the name you would expect me to rave about their donburi, except they're unfortunately quite average. They are delicious, but nothing exceptional. Rather, their special sushi rolls are more of a standout. Again it's the little touches, like the sprinkled nori or those red things, that makes it a bit extra-special.

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The more typical downtown lunch fare (if there is such a thing) would be sandwiches and etc. from what I call "faux-rustic/industrial brasserie-inspired West Coast fusion hipster retro café-restaurant". Yes, that was a lot of words. No, I don't have a more compact or elegant way to describe the type of food shops common in Gastown and Downtown.

Ploughman's Plank from Chill Winston.

Ploughman's Plank from Chill Winston.

Above are some delicious house-made terrine and sausage with mustard, spicy pickled vegetables and lightly roasted bread. Although called a Ploughman's Plank, the portion is only suitable if you happen to be an exceedingly tiny (or lazy) ploughman. I happen to love cured meats and vegetables, so things like this are right up my alley. Chill Winston has pretty slow service at lunch though, so don't go with a large crowd. This dish required minimum preparations and the place was practically empty but it still took them a good 15 min to bring this out of the kitchen. The waitresses were also not very attentive at all. Their food is good though and I recommend coming back in the evenings for some of their cocktails.

Soup and salad lunch combo from Rainier Provisions.

Soup and salad lunch combo from Rainier Provisions.

The decor of this place screams retro (and hipster). They have lovely turquoise steel folding chairs and all food comes on these tin trays. This was cream of mushroom soup (rotating daily soup) and a beet and roasted fennel salad (with local goat cheese!). Rainier Provisions is also unfortunately lacking in the service department. Nothing severe but everything is just quite slow.


On the cooking front, I haven't done much this month (that I've taken photos of). I did take a picture of my totally not authentic cabbage rolls.  I was craving them due to the cold weather (spring, where?). I think the ones I make are a little closer to the Polish variety but I honesty have no clue. I just slapped together some ingredients and wrapped them up.

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The filling is half and half ground beef and pork, finely diced onions, cabbage and potatoes, some coriander and a mix of ground spices containing sea salt, peppercorn, allspice and paprika. The cabbage leaves were parboiled first to make them more malleable for wrapping. It's simmered in a mix of tomatoes and onions, seasoned with sea salt, pepper and rock sugar.

Although I did so well to not get sick while everyone around me was deathly contagious, I finally fell victim to the plague at the end of March. Strangely it made me crave South-Eastern curries, so I went out and bought some. It's all semi-instant roux because I don't usually cook with any spices, and as such don't tend to stock any. I forgot to take a picture, but the brand of the curry noodles below also makes a delicious (for instant noodles) laksa. I also bought some cream stew (クリームシチュー) roux as well because I've been wanting to try a half-curry half-cream stew concoction à la 鴛鴦炒飯.

All from T&T.

All from T&T.

I'll be heading to Italy for just over a week in April, so stay tuned for next month's food porn. 


A rose by any other name

What's in a name? The Pattern Recognizing Machine (who I am an avid fan of) has a nice short write-up here about names and the changing of names. I didn't know quite how to start this blog with, so I thought I would try to clarify the names I chose.

The domain and website name "Alice of Roses", and the username "schmetterling" are both words I've been using for a long time now, casually flitting about the vast sea of the internet. Initially I considered a completely different name to begin this brand new adventure, but I feel that what has happened is a gradual evolution than a sudden jump to a new land.

 Xxxholic by CLAMP had just started shortly after I entered high school. I was (and still am) a huge fan of CLAMP's works, both the art and the convoluted mythology-imbued philosophical story-telling. I instantly fell for the butterfly motif used for 必然 (ひつぜん, hitsuzen), something halfway between destiny and 缘分 (yuán fèn). I discarded my usual (foreign-language-that-makes-things-sound-cooler) French and eventually settled upon German in the later years of high school. I like the way "schmetterling" rolls off my tongue, even though I'm most likely pronouncing it incorrectly. I was also attracted to the butterfly as a vessel of the question raised in "The Butterfly Dream" (莊周夢蝶) because of a strange period in my childhood where I had out of body dreams and a belief I was some sort of alien masquerading as a human.

"Alice of Roses" came from a combination of my love for Alice in Wonderland and the various depictions of roses in fairy tales. What I took from Alice in Wonderland when I was young was a world of whimsy and nonsensical logic, the fantastical and the absurd, and a perfect complement to my childhood imagination running away from the dullness of everyday life. My interpretation of Wonderland is like trying to escape from the real world, except somewhere you made a wrong turn and fell into an even deeper cave where the shadows of the Forms are so degraded that everything is topsy-turvy, yet somehow ends up being even clearer through their absurdity and exaggeration. And all that emerges from the rose, as what protects Sleeping Beauty/Briar Rose, and the symbol of original sin in Beauty and the Beast, and eponymous of Snow-White and Red-Rose.

Combined, the above has become for me some strange sort of manifesto on life and its winding road towards the eventual event horizon we all face. Hence I've been reluctant to let it go, and instead have decided to immerse myself in the inane philosophy of my youth.

I consider it a job well done if everyone, myself included, is utterly confused at the end of this journey.